The Souterrains of Inishowen
The term souterrain is almost self explanatory. Of French derivation,
it is applied to a chamber, or series of chambers constructed below
the surface of the ground. Although such structures are widespread-they
are common on the Continent as in these Islands-their very nature
makes them an inconspicuous feature of the countryside.
The entrance, by which these chambers were approached, was, in
the first instance, extremely narrow and probably well hidden so
that in the course of years it has, in most cases, entirely disappeared.
The discovery of further examples is usually due to the collapse
of one of the roofing slabs during agricultural operations.
An excavation carried out recently near Burnfoot revealed clearly
the method by which these underground chambers were constructed.
A circular hole, about 12 feet in diameter and six feet deep, had
been scooped out of the stiff boulder clay, and the sides carefully
lined with roughly dressed stones, bedded in soft mould. Each tier
of stones slightly overlapped those below, so that the top of the
chamber could be closed with a single flag. This souterrain was
unique in having no apparent entrance, other known examples in Inishowen
being approached by a narrow passage, roofed with slabs. It is common
to find, about a yard inside this entrance, that one of the roofing
slabs projects downwards into the passage, forming an unexpected
barrier to the unwary invader.
The passage unusually widens as one progresses along it, and then
terminates in one or more chambers which, in a fine example situated
near Burt Presbyterian Church are of a beehive shape. In the case
of one at Rooskey, near Clonmany, however, they assume a more rectangular
form. These chambers are connected by a very much constricted aperture
which, in the Rooskey souterrain proceeds first in a horizontal
and then in a vertical direction to the succeeding chamber, each
chamber being on a higher level than the proceeding one.
Rooskey Clonmany
It is interesting to note that these curious structures often occur
in earthen raths, although there is no such recorded example in
the Inishowen district. It is also worthy of note that they appear
to occur in groups. Over a dozen have been reported in the Burt
district though only the one close to the Presbyterian Church is
now open for inspection. Four examples have been recorded on Inch
Island. A detailed description of a "Cave" situated "at
the base of Grianan" and explored in 1838, appears in Mactochair's
"Inishowen," but all traces of it have now disappeared.
Further examples are to be found in the whitecastle and Moville
districts, and several are reported at Baskill, near Culdaff, also
at Glasalt, about half way between Ballyliffin and Carndonagh. In
both the latter areas some of the excavations have been made in
the solid rock.
The probable date of construction and the use to which souterrains
were put are still obscure, and intensive excavation will be necessary
before definite conclusions can be reached. Several observations,
however, can be made. It is clear, for example, that the people
who constructed them must have been possessed of a fair degree of
culture, for the immense amount of labour entailed in their excavation
and in the dressing of the stones with which they are lined, implies
a settled mode of existence and the use of effective implements.
Archaeolgists have been inclined to date these structures to the
time of the Danish raids,but Professor R.A.S.Macalister in his latest
book "Ancient Ireland" suggests that a much earlier date
seems more probable, and it is generally accepted that they go back,
at least, to the early Iron Age.
As to their use, it has been suggested that they were the homes
of a people, driven to exist in the forest and thicket by a stronger
invader, and only daring to venture from their underground dwellings
under the over of darkness, hence giving rise to the many tales
of the "wee folk." But however convenient such a theory
may be in explaining the wealth of fairy lore which exists in Ireland
it can hardly be borne out by facts. These elaborate structures
are not likely to be the work of a terrorised, subject race, and
it is even more unlikely that they ever formed permanent dwellings.
No evidence of prolonged occupation has yet been found in a souterrain,
and indeed their very nature would make them most uncomfortable
homes. It is more feasible to regard them as temporary refuges from
infrequent raiders, and as possible storehouses for food or valuables.
Until much further research has been conducted we can only guess
vaguely as to the probable date and use of these common, yet inconspicuous
features of the Irish countryside.
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