The Temple of Greinan
Taken from Inishowen It's History, Traditions, and Antiquities by Maghtochair

The Temple of Greinan, near Burt is situated on the summit of the hill of that name, and at an elevation of 802 feet above sea level. From this mountain many splendid views may be obtained. The whole surface of the Foyle is distinctly visible, so likewise is that of the Swilly, Erragil and the Gap of Barnismore, McGilligan and Beneveney, Tyrone and central Inishowen, are equally within the reach of vision.

The talented Colonel Blacker, who was the first to discover this ancient remain of Greinan, considers it to have been a temple for the worship of the sun, and supports his theory by argument and proof. The following is that accomplished Colonel's description of it:-

"To the casual observer the first appearance of the edifice is that of a truncated cairn, of extrodinary dimensions; but on a closer inspection, particularly since the clearing away of fallen stones, etc., which took place under my direction, it will be found a building constructed with every attention to masonic regularity, both in design and workmanship. A circular wall, of considerable thickness, encloses an area of eighty-two feet in diameter. Judging from the number of stones which have fallen on every side, so as to form, in fact, a sloping glacis of ten or twelve feet broad all round it, this wall must have been of considerable height - probably from ten to twelve feet - but its thickness varies - that portion of it extending from north to south, and embracing the western half of the circle, being but ten or eleven feet; whereas, in the corresponding or eastern half, the thickness increases to sixteen or seventeen, particularly at the entrance.

To discover this entrance was one of the first objects of my attention, and having directed a clearance to be made as nearly due east as possible, a passage was found in breadth about 4 feet, flagged at the bottom with flat stones, equal in width to the opening itself, and fitted with great regularity. This passage was covered with flags, of very large dimensions, which, however, we found falling in; the main lintel on the inner side was formed of a single stone, 6 feet 3 inches in length, and averaging fourteen inches square in thickness. Within the wall, to the right and left of this entrance (though not communicating with it), are carried two curious passages, about 2 feet wide by 4 feet in height, neatly covered at top with flags, in the same manner as the entrance. These passages extend through half the circumference of the building, terminating at the northern and south points; that running southward was found to communicate with the area, or interior of the place, by an aperture extremely disproportioned to the passage itself, being merely wide enough to permit the entrance of a boy; this aperture is due south, and the passage, as it approaches the eastern part of the building, becomes gradually narrow, being not more than six inches wide at its termination adjoining the entrance. The approach to that gallery or passage, wending northward, appears to have been from above, there being no signs of an aperture communicating with the area, as in the case of the other passage just mentioned; whereas, on clearing away the fallen stones, to the northward of the main entrance within the building, we discover a staircase, eighteen inches wide, leading from the level of the area to the top of the wall. This passage extends to the northern point, but differing from the other, it carries its breadth the entire way. On eitherside of the entrance passage, a few feet within, appears a square niche, or what masons would call a double revel of four inches deep. At first sight it seemed as if they had been the entrances to the two passages already mentioned, and which had been for some cause built up, but on examination this was found not to be the case; they were evidently formed at the original building of the wall, and I am inclined to think may have served for the purpose of enabling those within to close the passage from above by means of something in the nature of a portcullis. From a careful examination of the wall in different places throughout its circumference, it appears to have been parapeted, the space between the parapet and the interior of the circle being (as was usual in amphitheatres) allocated to spectators, and accessible by the staircase already noticed. In the centre of the area are the remains of the altar, or place of sacrifice, approached from the entrance to the building by a flagged pathway, which was discovered by raising the turf by which it is overgrown; around these are the ruins of a square building, but of comparatively modern construction - in fact, the place was resorted to by the Roman Catholics in the vicinity, for the purposes of worship, until some forty years back, when a small chapel for their accommodation was erected at the foot of the mountain - a certain proof of the traditionary sanctity of the spot. The stones of which the building is formed are of the common grey schistus, but evidently selected with considerable attention as to size; and, considering their exposure to the Atlantic storms for so many centuries, the decomposition is wonderfully small. In those parts of the wall which have been protected by the accumulation of the debris from above, the chilling is yet sharp and the squareness perfect. The circumstance of its being a stone building adds considerably to the antiquarian interest which Greinan is calculated to excite."

We beg to notify that at the base of the hill are several caves, which, no doubt, were associated with the structure on the summit. We find, too, caves of a similar description associated with Druidical remains, some of which we shall notice presently. The caves at the base of Greinan hill, now blocked up, were described to Mr. and Mrs. Hall by a gentleman who entered them in 1838, as follows:

"The chamber into which we first obtained entrance is somewhat dilapidated, and appears to consist of the original apartment of the building, and of a sloping passage leading to it. It is much encumbered with loose clay and stones, and declines a good deal towards the lower extremity, where we were able to stand perfectly upright, although we were at first obliged to creep in your own hands and knees. The form of this chamber is oblong, or rather oval.

On the arrival of lanterns, we proceeded into the second apartment. The passages between the first and second, as well as between the second and third apartments, resemble much the mouth of a large pipe, or the apertures (called in Ireland 'Kiln-logies') by which the fire is introduced into lime-kilns. These entrances are compactly built, of large stones, and they both decline a little towards their lower extremity - a remark which is also applicable to all three apartments. The second chamber is nearly circular, but approaches in form to the oval. Here, as in the other apartments, the floor is of clay, and the walls are regularly built of large stones, without mortar or cement of any kind, and incline perceptibly inwards at the top and bottom. In all these apartments the ceilings are composed of immense flags resting on the walls on either side, and smaller stones are advanced to support them in one or two instances where the flags were too short to cover the whole extent. The stones employed in the construction of the building are the common schist of the country, intermixed with whin stones and some quartz. The walls were found by measurement to average about three feet in thickness. The passage between the second and third chambers branches off to the east, and is situated on the right, immediately as you enter from the first apartment. In the corner of the second chamber, between the two passages, and nearly on a level with the ceiling, there is built a recess in the wall answering to the purposes of a cupboard, and similar to the 'boles' which are placed in the walls of Irish cabins. The architecture is the same as that of the rest of the building; it extends to the north east; the entrance is nearly square, but the interior is circular. The floor of the third apartment is one foot eight inches below the end of the entrance passage, of which fact the first of us who crawled in was informed to his cost, as may readily be imagined. The third chamber runs parallel to the second - viz., due north and south, and its form and architecture are similar, except that perhaps the second apartment is more circular!

Having said so much regarding Greinan and its vacinity, we will now state some of the reasons on which we have founded our opinion that it was not the royal residence. Its lofty and exposed situation in such a climate would render Greinan unsuitable for a dwelling-place. Colonel Blacker supposed, which supposition was adopted by Petre, that the height of the wall was but 13 feet. Considering its circumference, then, it would have been impossible at that height to have given it the bee-hive shape which Aileach is said to have had, as described in the poem of the Dinnseanchus. That description, therefore, whatever it is worth (and which, on the whole, we are inclined to believe is very fabulous) is not applicable to Greinan. Moreover, if the height of the walls was 13 feet, as stated by Colonel Blacker, and not contradicted by Petrie, the structure was unroofed; consequently it could not have been a royal residence. Gratianus Lucius says stones were not used at first by the Milesians in their buildings, nor was their use then known to the Britons and Gauls. Singular it is that the De Danians should have used them if the Britons did not. Ware says the judges of the Milesians were called "Brehons," and that they distributed justice and decided lawsuits in the open air and on high mountains; also, that they had no walled cities; that their homes were built of wood, and covered with thatch or straw. And again, that they always fought in the open air, had no fortified cities, and would have considered it as cowardice to conceal themselves behind walls in order to defend themselves against the enemy.

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