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Greencastle Walk
Inish Times 30th May 2002
This week's walk, again courtesy of Sam Mitchell, author of Country
Road, takes in the attractive village of Greencastle. This is a
very attractive short walk, which takes you along the coastal path
past the 14th century castle which gives the town its name, and
then up to a lovely viewpoint at St. Finian's Church, overlooking
Greencastle harbour and across the mouth of Lough Foyle to Magilligan
Point.
From the car park, opposite the Ferryport Bar, go down onto the
shore path and follow it northwards along the coast. This path has
been reconstructed and is in very good order. There is a lovely
view to the right across the narrow outlet of Lough Foyle to Magilligan
Point and its Martello Tower, backed by the high escarpment of Binevenagh
which slopes north-westwards towards Downhill, where the remains
of Downhill House and the beautiful Mussenden Temple are clearly
visible. The undulating path winds along the rocky shoreline, with
its tidal pools and great variety of birdlife - gulls, curlews,
cormorants and oystercatchers. In summer you may see the new Foyle
Ferries boat, heading from Magilligan Point to the slipway in Greencastle.
This is a reminder of the very close links between Greencastle and
Magilligan, especially in the 19th Century when there was a lively
trade in poteen between the two areas. There was also a large movement
of people, form an overpopulated Inishowen across to Magilligan,
to work as cattle herders and servants on the farms of the English
and Scottish settlers there. In the 1831 census of Magilligan Parish,
there were 57 families with the name of Dougherty and 47 families
of McLoughlin. The same narrow waters are busy today with Greencastle
fishing boats, heading out into or returning from the open Atlantic.
As the walk continues, the two imposing fortifications for which
Greencastle is famous come into view. First are the ruined remains
of the 14th
Century Northburg Castle, still most impressive with its high
towers of dressed stone, though much of the rest is almost entirely
covered by vegetation. You then pass through a small metal gate
set in a stone wall, and the path continues alongside the high outer
ramparts of the Napoleonic Fort, which presents a massive frontage
to the sea, its harsh outline masked to some extent by small plants
rooted in the wall crevices. The path then takes you through another
small metal gate (revolving) and rises to pass the front of an attractive
three-store house with an extensive well kept garden, in a very
secluded and sheltered location. The shoreline also continues to
attract attention; cormorants skimming low across the water to land
on a rocky islet just off-shore, where a small colony of these birds
gather to dry out and socialise between fishing trips. The last
part of this coastal path passes below the shading branches of large
sycamore and ash trees; then another metal gate takes you out onto
the end of a cul-de-sac. Here you may, if you wish, walk down to
the shore by turning right and going through a swinging gate onto
open meadowland. It is possible then to walk to the southern end
of Greencastle Golf Course, were there is a small Beach.
To complete the walk, however, turn left and follow the cul-de-sac
(which gives access to a number of private houses, including the
Manor House) up to the main Greencastle to Shroove road where you
turn left. This road climbs gradually uphill with no clear views
in the initial part. To the left is a patch of mature woodland,with
a large, noisy rookery. The road rises to a crest and then drops
down past the entrance to the Old Fort Inn, which occupies the Napoleonic
fort. Shortly after this you pass, on the right, a small house with
a colourful front garden and get a second look at Northburg, also
know as Green Castle, built by Richard de Burgh in 1305. The high
towers at the southern end of the castle are particularly impressive,
and there is a rather nice complementary view, beyond these, of
the Martello Tower on Magilligan Point. The aptly named Castle Inn
lies on the seaward side of a number of new holiday homes. Next,
the road passes alongside the National Fishery Training Centre,
with its classrooms and training deck, and arrives at a T-junction
where you could turn left to make your way through Greencastle village
to the car park.
To extend the walk, however, turn right to take advantage of the
lovely view of St. Finian's Church. As you walk up the road you
will see, to the left beyond the outskirts of Greencastle, the square
tower of this church on its hilltop site. The road curves to the
left and continues to climb to the upper road to Shroove, passing
on the left the ruined remains of the old church of Templemoyle,which
is almost completely covered by vegetation. The road climbs in a
straight line now through open farmland and between trimmed fuchsia
hedges. At the Pound Town crossroads turn left.
You are now on a wide main road, heading in a south-westerly direction,
with Greencastle below to your left. The road crosses a small stream
by a stone bridge, and you will see, to your right, steps leading
down to the side of the stream - no doubt an important source of
water for domestic use in the past. As this relatively flat road
curves gradually right, you will see ahead of you the tower of St.
Finian's Church rising from behind a belt of trees. You then pass
alongside an attractive small housing estate, set behind an open
green and with lots of colourful flowers on display. Immediately
after this, a small road cuts sharply down to the left in front
of McLaughlin's shore. This road will take you directly back to
Greencastle. However, first continue on for a short distance to
visit the parish church of St. Finian's. Go in through the main
gate and keeping to the left of the church tower, walk onto the
open area enclosed by a low wall. From here, there is a magnificent
view looking down into Greencastle harbour and across Lough Foyle
to Downhill, where Frederick Augustus Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol
and Bishop of Derry (1768-1803) had his residence. The Mussenden
Temple and remains of Downhill House are clearly visible. St. Finian's
Church, the construction of which in 1781 was financed by Bishop
Hervey, is unusually in that the 'East' window, faces almost due
west. It is said that the eccentric Earl Bishop had the church built
this way so that the congregation arriving at the entrance porch
(in the tower) could be viewed by telescope from his Downhill residence.
The Bishop could then decide whether to cross by ferry to attend
the church service or not!
Return to the road junction and turn right past McLaughlin's shore,
The road drops down steeply towards Greencastle, curbing right past
Kavanagh Nets which is very much related to local economic activities,
producing ropes, nets, agricultural twine, etc. The view ahead is
to the harbour and Magilligan Point. The road continues downhill
to join the main Moville road (R241), where turn left towards Greencastle.
Follow the footpath on the left-hand side of the road, which curves
right past Tardrum Fisheries Ltd., the front of Scoil Cholmcille,
with its attractive gable-end mural, representing Colmcille's sea
journey to Iona in 563 AD. To your right (a short distance along
the R241 from the road junction) is the access road to Greencastle
Maritime Museum and Planetarium, which is well worth a visit. It
occupies part of the former Coast Guard terrace of buildings (built
c. 1850), and has an interesting variety of Maritime items on display,
including relics from HMS Laurentic and an authentic traditional
Drontheim fishing boat. In front of the museum is located the lovely
Inishowen Maritime Memorial, unveiled by the then President of Ireland,
Mary Robinson, on June 6th 1997. Finally, you arrive back at the
bustling fishing port itself, with its ice plant. Foyle Fisheries
Co-op building and fascinating variety of fishing boats, both large
and small. Opposite the harbour car park is the award-winning Kealys
Seafood Bar and Restaurant. If you have parked at the small car
park (where the walk starts), you will find there a grassy picnic
area, with a picnic table and lovely views across the Foyle. However,
if you are a fan of seafood, you may well prefer to avail of one
of the many excellent restaurants and pubs, mentioned above.
Greencastle
(With thanks to the Greencastle & District Development Company
Ltd.)
The Annals of Ulster and Clonmacnoise both confirm that the Norman,
Richard de Burgh, Red Earl of Ulster, constructed Northburg Castle
in 1305. At that time, the de Burgh controlled most of Ireland,
with the exception of Inishowen and Tir Connail. The O'Donnells
and the O'Dohertys remained free and independent here, largely due
to the aid they received from the old Norse Kingdom of Argyle and
the Hebrides. These professional soldiers, known as the Gallows-glasses,
sailed to Donegal, where they served under the local chiefs in return
for pay or land.
In the early 1300s, the Red Earl of Ulster acquired the land across
Lough Foyle at Moville, from the Bishop of Derry. In 1305, he built
Northburg Castle opposite his manor of Roe in the county of Coleraine.
The garrison was erected in order to protect against attacks from
Scotland and to subdue the presence of the O'Donnells and the O'Dohertys
in Inishowen and their influence in the North West.
The castle represents a remarkable use of natural rock in the construction
of a Norman castle at a strategic location on the shores of Lough
Foyle. There was a Norman church attached to the castle, built around
the same time. Known as Teampall Maol (Templemoyle) or St. Mary's,
Northburg, it is presently in ruins. There is said to be a tunnel
between the two but this has never been substantiated. De Burg did
not have possession of his castle long, as from 1315 to 1316 he
defended against attacks from Edward Bruce, brother of King Robert
Bruce of Scotland. Following the battle of Bannockburn, Edward was
sent to Ireland by his brother to win the crown of Ireland. Northburg
was soon invaded by Edward in 1316. However, the victory was not
sustained, as Edward was killed in Co. Down shortly after in 1318.
De Burgh regained his stronghold and was succeeded by his grandson,
William, when he retired eight years later. William was known as
'the Brown Earl' and married Maude Plantagenet, great granddaughter
of Henry III. The Brown Earl's cousin, Walter Burke from Connaught,
rebelled against him and was imprisoned in Northburg's dungeons.
He was starved to death in the most cruel manner, the details of
which were recorded in many annals. His cruel death made such an
impact on the citizens of Derry that they incorporated a skeleton
into the coat of arms of the city. As the feud escalated between
the two factions of the family, it brought about the downfall of
the Earldom of Ulster as held by the Norman family of de Burgh.
Walter Burke's sister, Gyhe, sought revenge for her brother's murder
and slaughtered the Brown Earl. The era of Norman domination had
come to an end.
The Lordship of Inishown then passed to the O'Donnells early in
the 15th century. Their dependents, the O'Dohertys established themselves
at Northburg. In 1541 Sean Mor O'Doherty, Lord of Inishowen, joined
with the other chiefs in submitting to King Henry VIII and was given
the title of Sir John Mor O'Doherty. He married Rose, daughter of
Manus O'Donnell, Lord of Tir Connail. Calvach, son of Manus O'Donnell,
on having a disagreement with his father, left Tir Connail to seek
help in Scotland, where he obtained forces. He returned to Donegal
with a famous gun called Gonna Cam (The Crooked Gun), with which
he destroyed Northburg in 1555.
At the time of the plantation, Northburg was passed to Chichester
Lord Deputy of Ireland. As the English King's representative in
Ireland, Chichester maintained a small garrison at Northburg.
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